AW16 is going to be so rich and decedant and I think the collection that sums this up the most is Dries Van Noten in both his men's and women's collection. For the women's collection the inspiration was the eccentric and exotic relationship of Luisa Casatini and her lover Gabriele D'Annunzio. The colour palette although traditional feels very new with use of texture- leopard skin wide trousers, gold lapels and feathery collars. The wealth and tradition comes through in the use of crests, used as both motif and print. Van Noten describes it as "The Beauty of Decadence" and he is right in saying we need more of it in today's world. Luisa Casatini wished to create herself into a piece of art and this is felt through the collection.
The Men's show was held in the opulent Palais Garnier with garments to match, lavish embroideries and embellishments in a similar colour story to the Women's. There was military detail mashed with modern silhouettes of apron fronts and bomber jackets. From a personal view, Van Noten is one of the few designers I can take personal style inspiration from both genders, it's usually the Mens I find more inspiring.
Thinking of these stories spun through the garments, there is clear historical and contextual understanding behind it. It's the old saying goes, "you have to know the rule to be able to break them". A thorough understanding has to be there so you can "accurately" bend it.
Valuable lessons for working creatively.
Anna
Find more AW16 inspiration HERE
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